However you reach them, arriving in the Borders is a euphoric experience. The drive over the Cheviots to the border pass at Carter Bar on the A68 is breathtaking; or you can breach their eastern flanks, by train through Berwick- upon-Tweed, by road along the A1, or on foot along the coastal path. Near Eyemouth and St Abbs, the east coast main line, A1 and coastal path converge, giving one another glancing blows as they thread their way above a fracturing coastline of sandstone headlands, seabirds and sea stacks. I begin my journey on the east coast, at Eyemouth and wander among a handful of weather-creased fishing communities huddled beneath cliffs coloured claret with sandstone. Eyemouth's...
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